The view from Split’s harbour, looking out over the deep blue waters of the Adriatic sea, must be one of the most serene in Europe. Every May, under the facade of Diocletian’s Palace and with the islands of Brač and Hvar studding the horizon, this idyllic cove plays host to the Sveti Duje Regatta, the best kept secret in international rowing. This two day regatta, forming part of Split’s centuries-old celebration of the Feast of Saint Domnius, uniquely brings together both international student rowers from across the globe and ‘legends’ of the sport to race together and connect with each other. 

Although the first documented Sveti Duje regatta took place in 1825 between local crews from Split and the surrounding islands, the regatta owes its current format to a discussion over coffee between Toni Gamulin and Sydney 2000 Olympic champion Luka Grubor in Split’s HVK Gusar rowing club in 2005. “Our dream was to create a one-of-a-kind event that brought together the very best rowers in the world with the best young student athletes; the legends of today mixing with the legends of tomorrow.” Grubor said of their original plans. “We felt that if we could get some greats of the sport like Rick Dunn, Tom James, Jonny Searle, and Ante Kusurin in a bar with student rowers from around the world the conversation would flow naturally. We were convinced that rowers of any generation have so much in common that it would be a great opportunity for everyone.” 

From this ambitious dream, Sveti Duje has evolved into one of the most special events in the global rowing calendar. Split, with its rich cultural history and strong sporting traditions, has proven to be the perfect setting for connecting rowers from across the world. Students from Oxford, Cambridge, London, Johannesburg, South Korea, and Germany have joined with locals from the University of Split to race and share their experiences with Olympic medallists who are now experts in their professional fields.  

The regatta begins with a lavish opening ceremony in the gardens of the Meštrović Gallery, designed by the celebrated Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović and now housing many of his most famous pieces. There is an atmosphere of excitement as friends old and new come together to celebrate rowing, and a keen sense of anticipation for the forthcoming racing. 

Saturday morning sees the opening heats of the student regatta, where the best collegiate rowers from around the world race against Split, Oxford, and Cambridge over 1000 meters on the home waters of HVK Gusar at Spinut. Typically taking place just over a month after the Boat Race and often featuring the full Blue Boat line-ups, the racing is fierce as losing blues seek to overturn the result of the year’s Varsity match. Indeed the Regatta has been the scene of several upsets in recent years, including a string of four successive victories for the Oxford women over their Cambridge counterparts, reversing their Boat Race fortunes in tremendous style. 

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Despite the fierce racing, the atmosphere off the water is one of friendship, with the Legends cheering on the students and providing some tips to their old universities before the final. “It is very special watching the friendships form off the water” says former Cambridge cox and member of the Sveti Duje organising committee Matthew Holland. “The Boat Race is a pressure cooker of intense rivalry, but in reality everyone is so similar, and Split provides the perfect location for the crews to meet each other and make connections. The knowing nod between those who have raced at the regatta often extends far beyond Croatia, from Henley to the World Championships to the Olympics.” 

The relationships forged at Sveti Duje have been known to shape lives beyond rowing. For Cambridge blue Ben Smith, who rowed against his brother Matt in the thrilling 2003 Boat Race, it was racing at Sveti Duje where he met his wife, with whom he now lives in Split with their three children. Smith says “it is amazing how strong the connection with Croatia you forge at the regatta is”. 

Day two pits rowing legends against each other in the Race of Legends; a series of exhibition races designed to inspire the next generation of rowers and promote the passing down of knowledge and experience. It is held on a 220 meter course along the ancient city harbour walls: a best of three sprint series between the legends of Cambridge, Oxford, and Split. Recent competitors in this race include Olympic medallists Alex Gregory, Sizwe Ndlovu, Heidi Long, Tom James, Siniša Skelin, James Cracknell, Al Heathcote, Caryn Davies, and Constantine Louloudis. 

For Grubor, part of the joy of the regatta is watching the student athletes go on to become Legends in their own right. “Nothing is more satisfying than seeing the student athletes race here with their universities, and then watch them compete and even win medals at the Olympic games a couple of years later”. This is a well-trodden path with an impressive list of names, and includes Bermuda’s Dara Alizadeh, Great Britain’s bronze medallist in Paris Freddie Davidson, and Paris gold medallist in the USA men’s four Liam Corrigan.  

It is clear that Sveti Duje holds a special place in the hearts of those who have raced there; many describe it without hesitation as ‘the best weekend of my life’, and the list of those keen to return as Legends grows every year. That a small regatta in a beautiful part of Croatia can be held in such high regard by so many, including those that have reached the pinnacle of the sport, is testament to the hard work and vision of Grubor and Gamulin. “Sveti Duje is like nothing else on earth,” Holland reflects, “No other regatta manages to capture both the intensity of competition and the spirit of friendship in quite the same way. For me, it shows the very best of what the sport can be.” 

In the end, medals and results fade, but the friendships and stories forged on Split’s waters endure. That is why, year after year, rowers return; to race, to reconnect, and to be part of something larger than themselves. For a few days each May, Split becomes the capital of world rowing. In its blend of fierce racing, deep friendship, and timeless setting, Sveti Duje has carved out a place that no other regatta can match. Though still the sport’s best-kept secret, the Sveti Duje regatta has become rowing’s most enduring celebration. 

Živili vi meni veslači naši! 

This article first appeared in Issue 58.

Issue 58

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